Leaks are one of the most common problems with washers, and they can be one of the most damaging problems if you don’t immediately notice. If you see water draining near the front of the machine, the drain hoses around the tub might be at fault. Sometimes they leak from a clog or tear. Once the drain hose is torn, you have to replace it. Order part #5215EA4001G for a drain hose for your front-loading LG washer. Then follow these steps.
1. Unplug the washer and turn off the water.
Always unplug an appliance before you start making repairs. For this repair, you also need to shut off the water supply to prevent the risk of a leak as you remove the drain hose.
During the repair, you will also need to tilt the machine back. If there isn’t room where you washer usually sits, disconnect the water supply lines and the drain hose so you can move the washer.
2. Remove the front access panel.
Washer parts are locked together. You will need to remove a lot of different parts before you can remove the front access panel.
First, open the pump filter compartment in the bottom left corner of the washer. Release the locking tabs on the door hinges and set the door aside. Pull the pump drain hose free and then remove the hose cap. Set a bowl under it to catch any water. Then remove the housing by loosening the screw in the bottom. Once the housing is out of the way, you can remove the screw that holds the front panel of the washer to the frame.
Next, open the washer door and pry up the boot seal clamp. This is under the first rubber edge of the outer boot seal. Just pry it out with a flathead screwdriver and set it aside. Now you can peel the right side of the boot seal out of the way to remove the door switch. Loosen the two screws holding the lid switch in place and then push it into the machine. Close the door.
After that, get the top panel out of the way. Move to the back of the washer and loosen the screws holding the brackets to the rear access panel. Then slide the top panel back an inch and lift it free.
Next, remove the detergent drawer. Once it’s out of the way, remove the two screws holding the drawer’s housing. Then you can push the housing into the machine. Because the top panel is out of the way, you can make sure it doesn’t tug or bend any internal parts.
Then remove the control panel. To do this, first, remove the screw in the right corner by the control panel that secures it against the frame of the machine. Next, loosen or cut through the tie securing the multi-colored wires near the control panel. Once they’re loose, also pry the three harnesses apart. You don’t need a flathead screwdriver, just press tabs by hand. Pry the top of the control panel loose by hand. Once the top is free, you can lift the whole panel off of the bottom groove. Carefully pull the wires out through the cutout in the frame and set the control panel aside.
Now you can remove the front access panel. Remove all of the screws around the perimeter of the front panel; there should be six. You may need to secure it in place with your hip or hand as you loosen the last screws. Tilt the panel forward and lift it off the bottom groove. Then set the panel aside.
3. Remove the broken drain hose.
Set a block or sturdy box a foot behind the machine. Then tilt the washer backward so the back rests on the box. Make sure it doesn’t pinch any hoses or the power cord.
Once the machine is at an incline, you can start replacing the drain hose. Locate the broken or cracked part. There are two hose clamps. Use a pair of pliers to compress the hose clamp closest to the boot seal. Then pull that end of the small drain hose completely free. Next, reach deeper between the boot seal and the frame to locate the clamp that secures the other end of the hose to the appliance. Use the pliers to also compress this clamp and pull the second end of the hose free. Keep track of the clamp near the outer boot seal which is completely detachable, the drain hose, and the two clamps connected to it. You will need the clamps later, and you don’t want them rattling around the machine.
One of the most common causes for a leak near any of these drain hoses is a clog in the hose. While your hose might have cracked or torn, there may still be buildup. Use a pipe cleaner or (gently) a screwdriver around the ports to remove any buildup.
4. Install the new drain hose.
Remove the two clamps from the old drain hose. Also, pull the coupling free. Push the white coupling into one end of the drain hose. Then slide all three clamps onto the middle of the drain hose for installation. First, push the end of the drain hose without the coupling into the deeper port on the frame outside the outer boot. Make sure it’s snugly in place before you even clamp it. then clamp. Push the end with the coupling into the port in the boot seal until you can’t see any of the white part. Clamp the first clamp into place over the outer boot seal port. Then shift the remaining clamp to the end of the drain hose right beside it.
Once the new drain hose is fully in place, tilt the washer back up until the bottom is resting on the floor.
5. Reassemble the washer.
Work backward from the second step.
Start by resting the front panel on the bottom groove. Then push it until it’s flush with the front of the machine and secure it with the six screws.
Next, set the control panel into the groove on the top of the front panel. Push the wiring into the cutout. Then tilt the panel until it’s flush with the washer. Press it down until the locking tabs engage. Also, tighten the screw in the right corner to fully secure the control panel.
After that, reconnect the wiring. Connect all three wire harnesses on the other side of the panel. Then group the wires together and secure them with a zip tie.
Reattach the detergent compartment. First, realign the housing with the cutout in the control panel and push the housing into place until it clicks. Rethread the two screws to hold it in place. Then slide the drawer fully into place.
Reattach the top panel. Lay it flat on the top of the washer with approximately an inch hanging over the rear of the appliance. Then slide it into the groove at the top of the control panel. While you’re at the back of the machine, resecure the two brackets on the top panel to the rear panel.
Go to the front of the machine and open the door. Push the lid switch back into the cutout and secure it in place with the two screws. Fix the seal by pulling the edge back into the groove by the lid switch. Before you fully push the last outer edge into the groove, run the outer clamp around the exterior groove in the boot seal. Position the spring at the bottom.
Once the outer clamp is almost fully in place and can’t go any further, use pliers to stretch the spring and push the rest of the clamp into place. Make sure you don’t pinch or tear any part of the boot seal during this process. Check over the seal to make sure it’s smoothly in place and can’t be tugged free.
Close the door and return to the drain pump filter compartment at the bottom of the machine. Resecure the housing with the screw. Ad the cap to the drain hose and then push it back up into its locking tabs. Reattach the door and close the compartment.
Your washer should be ready for its next cycle. If you had to detach the water connections or pull the drain hose free during uninstallation, return the lines to their proper position now. Turn on the water connections and plug it back in.
For more appliance repair guides or part replacement tips, go to Authorized Service here.